Our first journey took us back west, over Arthur's Pass, to spend more time on the west coast as we had skipped through prior to lockdown in our rush to get to Christchurch. The route is magnificent, cutting through the alpine peaks, and the settlement of Arthur's Pass is known for spotting Kea - the alpine parrot unique to NZ. We spent a chilly but fun hour being entertained by two birds including a thorough examination of the van. From the rings we identified one as Zane but couldn't ID his partner.
Greymouth seems aptly named, being tired in appearance, but enabled us to buy essentials at last - new watch battery for Mary and shoes for Kevin (lost a heel on Day 1 of lockdown so had been living in walking boots since then!). Also collected a parking ticket - 'Inconsiderate Parking' is an offence in NZ.... parked in a designated space, within the allotted time albeit facing oncoming traffic. 'Very dangerous' according to the most joyless Kiwi we have met as she booked us. No pictures of her, thought it best not to ask.
Heading north we visited the pancake rocks and blowholes at Punataiki; interesting but not spectacular as the high tides were at night.
Further on at Karamea we reached the end of the road north and were greeted at the campsite by a group of locals well into their homebrew and about to spark the BBQ. After being welcomed like long lost friends and tasting their homebrew a farmer produced a block of venison fillet for us - what a welcome.
Next day was spent birding at the river estuary (Caspian & Whitefronted Terns, Spotted Shags, Heron and of course Oystercatchers) and then walking part of the Heaphy Track along forest paths to Scotts Beach. Yet another beautiful beach under blue sky, but with huge breakers and not safe to even paddle - the undertow warnings were very clear!
We then stopped at a place called Cape Foulwind, named by Captain Cook for reasons best known to himself, fortunately for us it wasn't and we spent a pleasant hour watching a seal colony on the rocks below us, including suckling pups.
We have now travelled cross country through Buller Gorge, yet another magnificent road trip, on to the north coast and are at the northern tip of South Island. A pretty remote location, Wharariki Beach was fantastic with huge rocks, arched and caves as well as seal pups playing in the surf. Farewell Spit, 27km long, protects the entrance to Golden Bay along with huge flocks of birds (Swans, Godwhit, and of course Oystercatchers). Along the way we visted the famous Abel Tasman NP and took a boat trip along the coast then walked 12km of the trail back through ancient forest, occasionally dropping down to sandy coves for a paddle. It is late autumn here and we can confirm that the sea is cold, but the skies stay blue and sunny.
Currently in Nelson (Hop country), our next stop will be Marlborough. For any wine buffs out there, feel free to forward any questions you might have - we'll be sure to keep tasting at the vineyards until we get the answers for you.
Until next time, may your bubbles expand, but stay safe and well.
